How many beers will my kit make?
How long does it take?
Fermenting = 2 weeks
Bottling = 30 minutes
Bottle Conditioning Time = from 2-4 weeks depending on the recipe
In total, it is roughly a month from your brew day to when you can pop one open and enjoy!
I only see one hop bag - but instructions say there should be more - am I missing hops?
Each labeled hop addition bag has been vacuum sealed together into the foil bag marked Hops. Please keep it sealed and stored in your fridge until your brew day to maintain maximum freshness
Does brewing smell?
What comes in the recipe pack?
- Malted grains crushed and mixed according your chosen recipe
- Hops all precisely pre-measured and packaged separately for each ‘addition’ all vacuum packaged together into one foil hops bag
- Craft beer yeast sachet specific to the style of beer
In addition to these high-quality core ingredients, you will receive:
- ‘Kettle finings’ a derivative of seaweed which breweries use to help pull proteins out of the beer helping to clarify your beer to a higher standard
- Brewer’s Sugar – the same quality sugar breweries use to create the carbonation in the bottle
- No-rinse sanitizer to make up 2 x 5L sanitising solution – one for use on brewing day and one for bottling day.
What comes with your equipment kit?
- Fermentation pail with LCD thermometer sticker on the side and dispensing tap
- Bottling wand which attaches to your spout for easy bottle filling
- Immersion thermometer to monitor your brewing temperatures and stirring stick
- airlock which fits into the fermenter lid
- HomeBrewtique’s re-usable brew bag
Why don’t you use those pretty glass demijohn bottles like everyone else?
- It is clear! And sunlight is beer’s worst enemy. If you brew in a glass demijohn you need to cover it up to keep the light out or risk having your beer oxidized. Our opaque plastic pail blocks all light from interfering with your brew.
- It has a tiny bottleneck!
a. This is very impractical when it comes to pitching the yeast. Our wide top makes adding yeast or dry hopping very easy.
b. Cleaning is a nightmare. You need special wires to reach in through the small opening and clean all the sediment. Again our wide top pail is a cinch to clean. You can even pop it in your dishwasher.
c. The area for gas release is tiny and often leads to blown airlocks or at least blocked air-locks. Our pail has such a wide surface area that the gas releases easily escaping out the airlock with little chance of problems.
Do I need anything else to brew my beer?
- A large stock-pot which can hold 7.5L of water + your grains with plenty of boiling space (we recommend at the very least a 9L capacity pot for this)
- An accurate measuring jug to make sure you get that 7.5L of water measured out
- A kitchen timer – or even a timer on your phone will do!
- A colander/ strainer
- A mixing bowl
- A mixing spoon
And of course a good attitude, ready to experiment and have some fun!
What if I get interrupted or run out of time?
- Your beer can sit in the oven during the MASH phase for longer than the recipe calls for. The sugars have all come out of the grains and it won’t do any harm if the grains sit in the warm liquid for a bit longer.
- In the chilling phase you can leave your pot covered for up to 12 hours before pitching your yeast
Is there any way to speed up the process if I am in a real hurry?
Just as there are parts of the brewing process which can be lengthened without harm, there are a couple of phases of brewing which can be rushed through with little risk if you must.
- The MASH stage can be shortened to 30 + minutes if you need to save some time. Most of the sugars have been removed from the grains in this time. Raising the temperature at the end of the MASH will also help get extra sugars out. The only risk on shortening the time is a slightly lower alcohol content in your end product.
- We recommend a primary fermentation time of two weeks to allow for variety in temperature, varying yeast activity between batches and any other factors which may influence the rate of fermentation. In ideal conditions, fermentation will generally be complete after 7-10 days. By closely watching your airlock for any signs of bubbling, you can determine whether the yeast has completed its job and is done fermenting your beer or whether gases are still being released. Bottling before the fermentation is finished can lead to exploding bottles which is why we always recommend waiting the extra time. However, if need demands it, it is possible – just remember you do so at your own risk!
How important is sanitizing everything?
That being said however, a small mistake here or there probably won’t contaminate the batch. If you operate in a clean kitchen and do your best to sanitize the equipment, your beer should turn out just fine.
What if I make a mistake? Do I have to throw it all out?
We recommend always seeing it through because the chances are it will be okay – if you do need to dump it in the end, at least you have learned how that mistake effects the flavour of the final product. You can always take sample sips along the way too if you are worried that something may have gone horribly wrong. Before pitching the yeast you can taste the wort which is usually quite sweet and mild at this stage and before bottling the beer you can taste what comes out of the fermenter. It won’t have the depth of flavour or the carbonation the final product will have, but if it has been contaminated you will probably taste it.
My beer looks cloudy
You can also try to do something called ‘cold crashing’ your beer which helps the proteins come out of the liquid. It is as easy as putting the beer in your fridge for a few days! You might find this helps to clarify your beer – and then it is all ready to drink, nicely cooled already.
How can I reach you?
Please call us on:
+44 (0)1727 830 054
Email at firstname.lastname@example.org
Or send us a real letter! We love those and barely ever get them anymore.
74 Beaumont Avenue
St. Albans, AL1 4TP